Politics in Taiwan

The BBC recently published this article about a major protest in Taipei on Sunday. Earlier in the weekend we received an email warning from the American Institute in Taiwan (AIT, aka the "embassy" here), just as a caution that this huge demonstration would take place, and that even non-violent protest can get out of hand. That being said, there seem to have been no real clashes with police like in the fall.

I wanted to take a minute, though, and offer my own reflections on the state of politics in Taiwan, after having been here for a little less than a year.

For those of you unfamiliar with Taiwan's political situation, there are two parties, the KMT (blue) and the DPP (green). KMT traces back to Chiang Kai-Shek coming to Taiwan from the mainland, following the the Communist revolution. Throughout martial law, the KMT held power. Only recently has the green party held power, though right now the former president, Chen Shui Bien, is under indictment for embezzling. This has definitely hurt the green party in terms of popularity, thus paving the way for President Ma's (blue) current pro-China agenda.

It has been interesting to talk to people about Taiwanese politics, as it is such a divisive topic for many. But despite my own peppering of questions, I try to refrain from interjecting my own viewpoint; instead I punt it off political questions as "a Taiwanese democratic responsibility that I support, no matter the outcome." I don't feel it is my place to come in and tell people how their country should be run or governed. My global views are far too anti-imperialist for such an outright throw-back to the white man's burden.

The one reflection, though, that has influenced how I would vote if I were Taiwanese is prevalence of the Taiwanese identity. I initially chose to come to Taiwan for the opportunity to study Mandarin. Beyond that, my interest in teaching abroad could have been satisfied in any non-western country. Looking back, I think I was expecting China Lite, or Westernized China. I was surprised to find, therefore, that many people speak not just Mandarin, but also Taiwanese. In addition to safeguarding priceless artifacts removed from the Forbidden City when the Communists in the mainland came to power, Taiwan also boasts a proud aboriginal culture. Daoist and Buddhist religion in Taiwan is unique compared with other parts of the globe. And that's not even getting started on food...

In short, I was surprised to find such a strong Taiwanese identity, as I had previously seen Taiwan as inherently linked to China. In fact, I would be remiss not to point out that many Taiwanese feel themselves (also, or more so) inherently linked to Japan, which colonized Taiwan from the late 1800s until the end of WWII. Taiwan is therefore not just one thing. It is this incredible mixture -- now including many immigrants from other countries like the Phillipines -- of people who arrived on this island at different times and for different reasons. And while there doesn't seem to be a consensus on quite what it means or should be to be Taiwanese, there is no mistaking this distinctive identity.

So when the day comes that Taiwan finds it in its best interest to unify with China, or to declare independence, I will be here to support that decision, no matter what it is. Because in the end, no matter what I believe, I have fallen in love with this small, complicated island. Taiwan is the nexus of numerous identities -- aboriginal, Japanese colonial, traditional Chinese -- that has created one amazing group of people.